Search results for "Breaking wave"
showing 3 items of 23 documents
A Shoreline model for breaking waves
2011
In order to simulate the wave motion and, in turn, the flow, within the nearshore region, in the last decades the derivation and the application of depth-integrated type of models have been widely investigated and developed. However, in such models, the problems of facing wave breaking and the moving shoreline are not trivial and therefore several approaches have been proposed. About wave breaking, approaches both based on the adoption of an artificial eddy viscosity Zelt (1991) and on the concept of roller Veeramony (2000), Karambas (2003), Musumeci (2005) have been implemented. As regards the shoreline boundary condition, a couple of numerical techniques have been mainly adopted, namely t…
Field run-up measurements: Calibration of a physically based lagrangian shoreline model
2012
In the present contribution a measurement technique based on video imaging has been selected for the assessment of the maximum run-up. Such measurements have been used for the calibration of a numerical model and of an empirical formulation. The on-site run-up measurements have been carried out at “Lido Signorino” beach, near Marsala, Italy. The positions of the swash have been localized on a transect, normal to the shore, constituted by stakes placed at 0.5 m intervals each other. The video camera was placed orthogonally to the line of the stakes. For the numerical simulations a 1DH Boussinesq-type of model for breaking waves has been applied which takes into account the wave run-up by a L…
Global dynamical behaviors in a physical shallow water system
2016
International audience; The theory of bifurcations of dynamical systems is used to investigate the behavior of travelling wave solutions in an entire family of shallow water wave equations. This family is obtained by a perturbative asymptotic expansion for unidirectional shallow water waves. According to the parameters of the system, this family can lead to different sets of known equations such as Camassa-Holm, Korteweg-de Vries, Degasperis and Procesi and several other dispersive equations of the third order. Looking for possible travelling wave solutions, we show that different phase orbits in some regions of parametric planes are similar to those obtained with the model of the pressure …