Search results for "Swash"
showing 5 items of 5 documents
Uncertainties in shoreline position analysis: the role of run-up and tide in a gentle slope beach
2017
Abstract. In recent decades in the Mediterranean Sea, high anthropic pressure from increasing economic and touristic development has affected several coastal areas. Today the erosion phenomena threaten human activities and existing structures, and interdisciplinary studies are needed to better understand actual coastal dynamics. Beach evolution analysis can be conducted using GIS methodologies, such as the well-known Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS), in which error assessment based on shoreline positioning plays a significant role. In this study, a new approach is proposed to estimate the positioning errors due to tide and wave run-up influence. To improve the assessment of the wave…
Field run-up measurements: Calibration of a physically based lagrangian shoreline model
2012
In the present contribution a measurement technique based on video imaging has been selected for the assessment of the maximum run-up. Such measurements have been used for the calibration of a numerical model and of an empirical formulation. The on-site run-up measurements have been carried out at “Lido Signorino” beach, near Marsala, Italy. The positions of the swash have been localized on a transect, normal to the shore, constituted by stakes placed at 0.5 m intervals each other. The video camera was placed orthogonally to the line of the stakes. For the numerical simulations a 1DH Boussinesq-type of model for breaking waves has been applied which takes into account the wave run-up by a L…
A shoreline boundary condition for a highly nonlinear Boussinesq model for breaking waves
2012
Abstract A physically based strategy was used to model swash zone hydrodynamics forced by breaking waves within a Boussinesq type of model. The position and the velocity of the shoreline were determined continuously in space by solving the physically-based equations of the shoreline motion; moreover, a fixed grid method, with a wet–dry interface, was adopted for integrating the Boussinesq model. The numerical stability of the model was improved by means of an extrapolation method. To validate the proposed methodology, the classical analytical solution for the shoreline motion of a monochromatic wave train over a plane beach was considered. The comparison between the analytical and numerical…
A Shoreline model for breaking waves
2011
In order to simulate the wave motion and, in turn, the flow, within the nearshore region, in the last decades the derivation and the application of depth-integrated type of models have been widely investigated and developed. However, in such models, the problems of facing wave breaking and the moving shoreline are not trivial and therefore several approaches have been proposed. About wave breaking, approaches both based on the adoption of an artificial eddy viscosity Zelt (1991) and on the concept of roller Veeramony (2000), Karambas (2003), Musumeci (2005) have been implemented. As regards the shoreline boundary condition, a couple of numerical techniques have been mainly adopted, namely t…
The Mediterranean Coast of Andalusia (Spain): Medium-Term Evolution and Impacts of Coastal Structures
2019
This paper shows coastal evolution along the Andalusia Region (Spain) and the impacts on it of coastal structures. The study area was divided into 47 units to calculate the erosion/accretion/stability (or evolution) rates by using the DSAS extension of ArcGIS software. Evolution rates were divided into different classes from &ldquo