6533b82dfe1ef96bd1291def
RESEARCH PRODUCT
A new multi analytical approach for the identification of synthetic and natural dyes mixtures. The case of orcein-mauveine mixture in a historical dress of a Sicilian noblewoman of nineteenth century
Francesca Di OttavioMarcella GuisoFabio SciubbaPaolo PostorinoRoberta CuriniCamilla MontesanoIlaria SerafiniClaudia FasolatoLivia LombardiManuel SergiRita CostanzaMaurizio BrunoArmandodoriano BiancoLucia Nuccisubject
Historynew ammonia extraction methodComplex Mixtureorcein dyeMALDI-ToF; Mauveine; new ammonia extraction method; orcein dyes; SERS on fibre; Sicilian dress; UHPLC-MS; Clothing; Coloring Agents; Complex Mixtures; Female; History 19th Century; Humans; Oxazines; Sicily; Spectrum Analysis; TextilesMALDI-ToF; Mauveine; new ammonia extraction method; orcein dyes; SERS on fibre; Sicilian dress; UHPLC-MS; Analytical Chemistry; Biochemistry; Plant Science; Organic ChemistryMauveineSicilian dreSERS on fibreOxazineColoring agentsPlant ScienceComplex Mixtures01 natural sciencesBiochemistrylaw.inventionAnalytical ChemistryUHPLC-MSClothingUhplc mschemistry.chemical_compoundlawMauveineOxazinesHumansColoring AgentsColoring AgentOrceinSicilySpectrum AnalysiMALDI-ToF19th CenturyChromatographyPolymer science010405 organic chemistryChemistrySpectrum AnalysisTextilesOrganic Chemistryorcein dyesHistory 19th CenturySettore CHIM/06 - Chimica Organica0104 chemical sciencesSicilian dress010404 medicinal & biomolecular chemistryFemaleSpectrum analysismauveine; orcein dyes; Sicilian dress; new ammonia extraction method; SERS on fibre; MALDI-ToF; UHPLC-MSHumandescription
In this paper, the application of a multi-analytical approach for the characterisation of synthetic and natural dyes in a historical textile is presented. The work is focused on a historical dress of a Sicilian noblewoman, dating from about 1865–1870. Firstly, SERS on fibre was performed, in order to individuate the classes of dyes employed. The SERS spectra suggested the presence of two main dyes: mauveine and orcein. In order to confirm these preliminary results, two different extraction protocols were applied. The extracts obtained were analysed by ESI-MS, MALDI-ToF and UHPCL-MS analyses, confirming the SERS results. In particular, the application of the ammonia mild extraction technique allowed to selectively extract the phenoxazonic dyes, separating them already in the extraction step from the synthetic ones. Thanks to this multi-analytical approach, this dress could be considered as one of the first examples of employment of synthetic dyes in association with natural ones.
| year | journal | country | edition | language |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2017-07-07 |