0000000000077624
AUTHOR
Rosaria Ester Musumeci
Random wave run-up with a physically-based Lagrangian shoreline model
Abstract In the present paper the run-up of random waves was calculated by means of a numerical method. In situ measurements based on a video imaging technique have been used for the validation of the present numerical model. The on-site run-up measurements have been carried out at Lido Signorino beach, near Marsala, Italy,along a transect, normal to the shore. A video camera and a linear array of rods have been used to obtain field data. Numerical simulations with a 1DH Boussinesq-type of model for breaking waves which takes into account the wave run-up by means of a Lagrangian shoreline model have been carried out. In such simulations random waves of given spectrum have been propagated in…
A shoreline boundary condition for a highly nonlinear Boussinesq model for breaking waves
Abstract A physically based strategy was used to model swash zone hydrodynamics forced by breaking waves within a Boussinesq type of model. The position and the velocity of the shoreline were determined continuously in space by solving the physically-based equations of the shoreline motion; moreover, a fixed grid method, with a wet–dry interface, was adopted for integrating the Boussinesq model. The numerical stability of the model was improved by means of an extrapolation method. To validate the proposed methodology, the classical analytical solution for the shoreline motion of a monochromatic wave train over a plane beach was considered. The comparison between the analytical and numerical…
A Shoreline model for breaking waves
In order to simulate the wave motion and, in turn, the flow, within the nearshore region, in the last decades the derivation and the application of depth-integrated type of models have been widely investigated and developed. However, in such models, the problems of facing wave breaking and the moving shoreline are not trivial and therefore several approaches have been proposed. About wave breaking, approaches both based on the adoption of an artificial eddy viscosity Zelt (1991) and on the concept of roller Veeramony (2000), Karambas (2003), Musumeci (2005) have been implemented. As regards the shoreline boundary condition, a couple of numerical techniques have been mainly adopted, namely t…