0000000000077625
AUTHOR
Enrico Foti
Random wave run-up with a physically-based Lagrangian shoreline model
Abstract In the present paper the run-up of random waves was calculated by means of a numerical method. In situ measurements based on a video imaging technique have been used for the validation of the present numerical model. The on-site run-up measurements have been carried out at Lido Signorino beach, near Marsala, Italy,along a transect, normal to the shore. A video camera and a linear array of rods have been used to obtain field data. Numerical simulations with a 1DH Boussinesq-type of model for breaking waves which takes into account the wave run-up by means of a Lagrangian shoreline model have been carried out. In such simulations random waves of given spectrum have been propagated in…
Field run-up measurements: Calibration of a physically based lagrangian shoreline model
In the present contribution a measurement technique based on video imaging has been selected for the assessment of the maximum run-up. Such measurements have been used for the calibration of a numerical model and of an empirical formulation. The on-site run-up measurements have been carried out at “Lido Signorino” beach, near Marsala, Italy. The positions of the swash have been localized on a transect, normal to the shore, constituted by stakes placed at 0.5 m intervals each other. The video camera was placed orthogonally to the line of the stakes. For the numerical simulations a 1DH Boussinesq-type of model for breaking waves has been applied which takes into account the wave run-up by a L…
A shoreline boundary condition for a highly nonlinear Boussinesq model for breaking waves
Abstract A physically based strategy was used to model swash zone hydrodynamics forced by breaking waves within a Boussinesq type of model. The position and the velocity of the shoreline were determined continuously in space by solving the physically-based equations of the shoreline motion; moreover, a fixed grid method, with a wet–dry interface, was adopted for integrating the Boussinesq model. The numerical stability of the model was improved by means of an extrapolation method. To validate the proposed methodology, the classical analytical solution for the shoreline motion of a monochromatic wave train over a plane beach was considered. The comparison between the analytical and numerical…
RESPONSE OF POSIDONIA OCEANICA TO WAVE MOTION IN SHALLOW-WATERS - PRELIMINARY EXPERIMENTAL RESULTS
Aim of the present work is to contribute to the knowledge about the interaction between the flow induced by wave and the aquatic vegetation. More in details the results of preliminary tests of an experimental laboratory investigation about the response of a Posidonia Oceanica meadow to wave motion in shallow waters is reported. A wide attention was posed to the behavior of a synthetic plants with plastic material. To this aim an image acquisition technique was used to analyze and compare the movement of both the artificial plant and the real one. The experiments carried out about the interaction between the artificial meadow and the waves showed a significant wave dumping, in particular in …
A Shoreline model for breaking waves
In order to simulate the wave motion and, in turn, the flow, within the nearshore region, in the last decades the derivation and the application of depth-integrated type of models have been widely investigated and developed. However, in such models, the problems of facing wave breaking and the moving shoreline are not trivial and therefore several approaches have been proposed. About wave breaking, approaches both based on the adoption of an artificial eddy viscosity Zelt (1991) and on the concept of roller Veeramony (2000), Karambas (2003), Musumeci (2005) have been implemented. As regards the shoreline boundary condition, a couple of numerical techniques have been mainly adopted, namely t…